Epicureans discover a place through its tastes. From the sweet sticky juices of mangoes or lobster, the sweetness of roast lamb

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问题 Epicureans discover a place through its tastes. From the sweet sticky juices of mangoes or lobster, the sweetness of roast lamb or tomatoes, they learn about the climate, the soil, the topography. In the mingling of irresistible spices, the fragrances of cookies and bread, they discern intricate histories. And, of course, in the sharing of food, they encounter the people who harvest and cook it.
   Fine restaurants are not the destination, though they certainly can provide part of the pleasure. Instead, it is the markets, neighborhood crannies, farms, vineyards, and docks that beckon—where the heart of place lies, and therefore its best tastes.
   So where are epicureans traveling these days? All over the globe" there’s no corner untouched by that great taste imperialist, imagination. Yet, in the most recent search of cooks, one thing stands out. The demand for food is not for the newest dish but for the newest old dish—the flavors and traditions that endure undiluted and undisturbed by modernization.

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答案美食家们通过味道来发现一个地方。他们从芒果或是龙虾甜稠的汁液中,从烤羊羔或西红柿的甜味中,了解当地的气候、土壤和地形。他们在调制诱人的香料时,或从面包糕点的香味中,尝出了复杂的历史。当然,在分享食物的同时,他们也就接触到了收获粮食并做成食品的人。 尽管好的餐馆无疑能提供部分乐趣,但它们不是美食家最终的目的地。相反,召唤他们的是市场、社区里不引人注意的角落、农庄、葡萄园和码头,这些才是一个地方的心脏,也是美味之所在。 这么说美食家们今天去哪里旅游呢?全球皆可。全世界任何一个角落无不受到美味“帝国土义者”——想象力——的眷顾。然而最近,在寻找好厨师时有一件事显得越发重要:要找的不是最新式的菜肴,而是最新出现的老菜肴——是那种没被现代化冲淡,也没被现代化破坏的味道和传统。

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